starters
Hydro-locking
Hydro locking your engine can be one of the most costly repairs you will have to do, or will it? If your engine stops running after or while you are running through water ( dose not matter how deep) you may have Hydro-Locked your motor.
Hydro-Locking a motor is when the engine during a compression cycle has enough fluid to fill the combustion chamber thus stopping the piston from moving.
Fluid can be ingested through the air intake, leak past the rings while rig is on side or upside down, internal oil or coolant leak in to a cylinder.
What do you do,
If you think you may have fluid on your piston from running through water following the steps below may save you some money.
1. DO NOT try to start with the starter or by pull starting.
2. Check the engine oil level, If level is high you will have to drain the water oil out of the engine before you can turn the engine over.
3. Remove the air cleaner. If air cleaner is wet then you probably have water on the piston.
4. If you have not done so by now, move the rig to dry ground.
5. Remove all spark plugs. Do not worry about finding the wet one just pull all of the sparkplugs out.
6. LOOK under the engine for a hole in the side of the engine block or outward dent in the oil pan. This is a clear indication that a rod has broken and a tow is needed.
7. Somehow Manually turn the engine over 4 complete revs of the crankshaft. This is to ensure that there is no internal binding in the motor.
8. Now for the fun part. With all sparkplugs removed, Air cleaner off and all parts/tools picked up- Crank the motor with the starter. Crank for 30 seconds stop and wait 1 minute, then crank another 30 seconds and then wait 1 minute. Do this until no fluid is being pushed out the sparkplug holes. This is a good way to get someone wet if you want.
9. Now you have to put the rig back together. Start putting the sparkplugs back in. Make sure that they are dry. A BIC lighter will work but remember the plug will get hot so use pliers to grasp the plug. Also, DO NOT put the hot plug into the engine. Gas in the cylinder could ignite blowing the sparkplug at you. BULLITT. Check each plug for proper gap before you put the plugs back in. Put the ignition wires back on the correct cylinder position.
10. Try to start the motor. If it starts let it IDEL. Pockets of fluid may still be in the intake. Gradually increase motor RPM. When the motor sounds ok then put the intake and filter back together.
11.When putting the filter back in Try to do so with the motor running. Set it in place slowly to allow the water in the filter to be pulled through by the motor. If you put the filter in to fast the motor may Choke out and shut off. If this happens just pull the filter out again, start the motor then start putting the filter back in place.
12. Once the engine is running pull out the engine oil dipstick. you are now looking for white on the stick. This tells you that you have water in the oil and again you need an oil change NOW.
13. Remove your radiator cap. Let the motor run while you are doing step 14 below. When warm and en\\motor running, look at the coolant at the cap opening if you see bubbles you have a blown head gasket or worse. If the coolant level is burping out or the level is going down, You have motor issues and you need a tow.
14. REMEMBER to do no harm. Clean up all of your mess and anything else in the area that you can take care of. NEVER Drain you oil on to the ground. ALL OIL should be dug up and taken with you.If a support vehicle is in your group they have spill kits for just this circumstance..
By following the steps above you have a good shot of wheeling the rest of the day.
The slower the motor is turning when the fluid is first induced into the cylinder will determine the amount of damage to the motor.
Major damage Broken ROD, Hole in piston top, Bent valve.
Minor damage Blown Head gasket.
Trail repairable Blown spark plug, damaged sparkplug.
If you see that you are going in to deep, Turning the motor off and getting pulled out can save you from major damage but not for Hydro-Lock. You will still need to follow the steps above.
Go slow. Know you rig. Know where the air intake is. Look see how deep you can go. Make sure everything is tight and sealed. Water can be a fun challenge or your worst nightmare.
Remember to know the level of all vents. 999 autos in YJ and others is behind the torque converter. Water as shallow as 12 inches can ruin the transmission.
After every run check all fluid levels...
**this was borrowed from member BDH**
Fording water..Do's and Dont's
We all like to offroad are Jeeps and come across water frequently...Have you ever considered if your rigs able to handle the deep stuff?If you follow these steps below it will increase the ability to ford water deeper than your buddy without second thoughts..
This rightup is mainly written from a carbed vehicles experiences but you FI guys share the same dangers..
Engine
Take it slow..water splashing around under the hood is one of your worst enemies..your stock mechanical fan is like propeller under water..It will throw water all over the engine like a hose..Or even more dangerous,if the fans close enough to the radiator it could get sucked into it causing a real mess,and a need to be towed home..For very deep water an electric fan is good cuz you can switch it off during water crossings...paper filters when wet will expand and most likely to shut an engine down before hydro-lock will occur..Those cotton gauze type ''kn'' will allow water to flow through un-restricted..A snorkel is a sure investment if you run in deep water...An open filter in the engine compartment are an invitation to damage..If you do get your self in a situation that you know the intake is about to be under water shut the engine off as quickly as you can...and follow the steps below
In the event you suspect taking in water in the intake
If your rig does stall's suddenly in deep water without a snorkel get towed out and evaluate the reason it stalled before trying to turn it over...Look at the filter to see if it ingested water...if the filters wet,pull the connection to the carb or throttle body to see if the water ventured that far...If it did,take the time to pull the all the spark plugs and turn it over to clear any water in the cylinders..it will shoot hard and quickly out of the spark plug holes so have your buddy's stand back..crank it over till all water stops spraying out of the plug holes..Try to dry the spark plugs if wet..Anything works at this time..A few good things are a lighter,your buddies hot exhaust,even just blowing on them..Reinstall the plugs,and before you try to crank it over take a look at your oil dipstick..If theres water in the block,theres a trick to get the Jeep mobile to get it home..If the water hasn't been mixed with the oil,you can drain it into a trash bag..The water will separate from the oil and you can drain the water off and reuse the oil..But drive it straight home..when It starts ONLY let it run for about 30 seconds..Shut it down and take a look at the oil dip stick..If it looks like a milkshake your gonna have to change it before you run it any more..Thats why why you intend on playing in deep water its best to bring along a couple oil change ''kit'' you know oil filter,OF wrench,and something to contain the old oil..
Electrical
Spray your dizzy and wires down with tire silicone,or hairspray<<<yes it works<<<make sure there are no bare wires showing..Use di-electric grease on all connections..I use that liquid electrical tape on permenant connections..Try not to use your starter under water if you stall..get pulled out first if you can..You can run a bead of silicone under the lip of the dizzy cap or newer ford tauruses ''you know the one you pulled that electric fan from''have a nifty rubber guard for the dizzy on them..It stretches around the dizzy to keep the cap from getting water in it..You have to make it work for a jeep but its easy..Carry extra fuses just incase you do blow a fuse in the water..Also WD-40 is great to spray in a dizzy cap if you do happen to get water in there..
Drivetrain
Make sure your vents and axle seals are in good shape and vent tubes higher than the anticipated water levels..Changing fluids in the axles,tranny and Xfer case gets old after a while...And for the guys with auto trannys...Be aware that your tranny vent in located behind the torque converter...Very low...Only way to change it is to pull the tranny,block the stock vent with like JB weld and drill and tap a new vent on the top...At the end of the day,regardless of your set up its good practice to check all fluids in your Jeep..Driving with water contamination in your drivetrain Will cause an early grave for it..
In the end water is fun,but is a big maintenance PITA if enjoyed frequently un-prepared..
